Jeans/Pants– sewing instructions for higher back piece with removed waistband (NORMAL)

Cut out pattern pieces in the fabric you have chosen for your adaptation (fig.8). Note that you have to place the centre pattern piece on the fold of the fabric. This should not be done with the side pattern piece. No seam allowance is required now as this is included in the pattern pieces.  As you can see in the right illustration below (fig.9) you will have three fabric pieces cut out with the centre piece double the size of its pattern piece.

Place pattern pieces on chosen fabric with centre pattern piece on fold. Cut out fabric pieces with centre piece double the size of pattern piece.

Pin the pieces and sew together as shown in illustration below (fig.10).  The side pieces will be attached to the centre piece with right the side of the fabric facing each other. Overlock or zig-zag the seams. Fold out the piece  and press the seams flat facing outwards. Finally overlock or zig-zag the raw edges around the piece like in the illustration to the right below.

Pin and sew together fabric pieces. Overlock or zig-zag seams, press flat and overlock or zig-zag raw edges.

Fold the piece in half and lay on a new piece of folded fabric. Using the adaptation piece as a guide, trace the curved line and the side line onto the new piece of fabric as in the top two illustrations below (fig 11).

Make another line approx 6 cm below the top line, following the curve. Cut the piece out as in the bottom two illustrations below (fig. 11). This is now your FACING piece, it will finish the back off neatly.

Use cut adaptation piece to measure, draw and cut out facing.

Over-lock or Zig-Zag the side edges of the facing piece (fig. 12).

Adaptation piece and facing with side edges overlocked/zig-zagged.

Fold the lower edge of the adaptation piece and the lower edge of the facing piece approx 1 cm up, right sides facing out and press flat (fig. 13).

Fold lower edges of adaptation piece and facing 1 cm and press.

Pin the facing piece to the adaptation piece, right sides facing each other and sew together. Turn the facing piece so that right sides are facing out and press the seam line.  Press the edges in 1 cm on both the adaptation piece and the facing (fig. 14).

Pin and sew facing to adaptation piece right side against each other. Turn over and press. Press sides in 1 cm.

Zig-zag stitch the raw edges of the jeans/pants (fig, 15).

Zig-zag stitch the raw edges of the jeans/pants

Cut small notches in the corners of the jeans/pants. This allows for more movement or the original garment when inserting the new piece (fig. 16).

Cut small notches in the corners of the jeans/pants.

With the facing folded up pin the adaptation piece into place. Start in the middle then working your way out on both sides. Make sure the adaptation piece will fit in evenly by alternating putting in one pin to the right and then one to the left (equal distance) (fig. 17).

Pinning together the jeans/pants with the adaptation piece is done with right side of fabric facing you. You have already folded the edges of the adaptation piece and are covering the edges in the cut our section with this.

Pin the adaptation piece (facing folded up) to the cut out in jeans/pants. right side facing you.

Hand sew the adaptation piece into place (fig. 18). Hand sew the adaptation piece into place.

With the facing folded up use the sewing machine to top stitch over the seams to add strength (fig. 19).

With the facing folded up top stitch over the seams.

Fold the facing back down and stitch it to the adaptation piece Sew one row of stitching about ½ cm down from the top edge and one row about ½ cm up from the bottom edge (fig. 20).

Fold the facing back down and stitch it to the adaptation piece,

Sew the facing piece down on the new back piece (fig. 21).

Sew the facing piece down on the new back piece,

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