Sewing instructions for men’s suit style jacket:
- description of the content of the sewing instructions,
- how to cut out the pattern,
- sewing the curved back,
- sewing sleeves and attaching them,
- sewing wristband or cuff, collar and inserting zip (no facing),
- sewing wristband or cuff, collar and inserting zip (with facing)
- lining the hem.
Sewing wristband or cuffs, collar and zip (no facing)
This is how you attach wristbands in rib knit fabric.
a) Join the ribbing to a loop, right sides together. Press the seam allowances open.
b) Fold the ribbing wrong sides together and baste (hand sew) edges together.
c) Divide ribbing and sleeve into four equal parts and mark with pins.
d) Lightly stretch ribbing and sew to sleeve, finish seams together and press up.
This is how you make a cuff without ribbed wristband.
a) Fold up a small edge of around 1 cm and press.
b) Fold up a larger edge, around 1,5-2 cm press and sew.
You use the same method to attach all three types of collar, but you will not need to stretch the non-ribbed collar.
a) Press collar wrong sides together, mark shoulder seams and centre back with pins.
b) Pin collar to neckline, right sides together, lightly stretch and join making sure that marked points meet. Press down towards body.
Attaching the zip.
a) Over-lock the front edges before attaching the zip.
b) Lay the zip, with its front side facing the front side of the jacket, and with its teeth pointing towards the sleeve, sew allowing a little seam allowance.
c) Fold out the zip so the teeth are facing the right direction. Press the seam into the body.
d) Top stitch on the front side of the jacket, close to where the zip and the fabric meet.