How to cut out the pattern for men’s pants

Sewing instructions for men’s pants:

Cutting out the pattern

The front piece of the pattern for men’s pants includes both the pattern for a simple fly solution and a solution with a more complicated fly.

The pattern with the simple fly is cut as in picture A.
The complicated fly is made by cutting the pattern as in picture B.

The type B fly is more difficult to make but is more ‘jeans-like’ and has the option of being able to be made longer for men who require a longer opening. You will also need extra pieces for this fly.

Cut the front and back pieces on double layer of fabric like this.

Simple fly A, complicated fly BFront, back and waistband piece laid out on fabric

Add seam allowance (at least 1cm) to all edges and 2,5-3cm to the hems.

Remember that you can measure and adapt the length of the pants legs to suit your leg length. Depending on your seating posture the pattern length can be more or less suited for you. If you want to make sure, cut the pants slightly longer than you need. It is easier to shorten the leg length than making them longer if necessary.

The waistband is cut as one piece unless the width of the fabric is too short. In this case you have to cut it in two sections (remember to add seam allowance to the edges) and then join it in the back.

If you are going to use the more complicated fly, add a few extra cm (around 5 cm) to the end of the waistband.
Extra pieces  1, 2, 3 and 4The extra pieces on the pattern sheet
for the complicated fly are cut x 1, e.g. on single layer fabric. For the short fly cut one piece of extra part 1 and 2. For longer fly, cut one piece of extra part 3 and 4.

These patter pieces need to be layed out on the front side of the fabric when being cut so the pieces are facing the right way for the pants.

Remember to add seam allowance.

13 Responses to How to cut out the pattern for men’s pants

  1. Fola says:

    Does this apply for both male and female. Also, I am having a bit of a challenge in cutting a man’s bootcut. I will appreciate it if you can give me a general explanation on how to cut the fabric.

    • susanne says:

      Yes, this is basically a general information that should help you understand how to position the pattern pieces on the fabric and add seam allowance.

      I would suggest you alter the pattern first – to include the boot cut – and then cut the fabric. If you look at how the adapt pattern information for lengthening a skirt also includes widening it.
      Apply this idea to your pant pattern. Basically add a small triangular shaped wedge – starting just above the knee and ending at end of the leg. Remember to widening the pattern on both sides of leg. If you have a pair of boot cut pants – which are not adapted for seated position but have pant legs which have the size and shape you want – I would take these measurements and use them adapting the pattern for the pant legs. Our adaptations – for the seated position – only alter the part of the pants from waist band to start of thighs.
      If you don’t have a sample leg but are adapting the patterns by adding a wedge I would suggest you make a sample garment to make sure the legs are what you want. Making a sample garment sounds like a lot of extra work but it usually saves work in the long run.

  2. Hanlay says:

    I would like to learn how to make cutting for a pant .
    How to measure, How to cut for a pant.
    I can sew and i used to make a pant, but it was not successful.
    I know i need to learn more to get a perfect pant.
    Can you share me more?
    Thank in advance,

    • susanne says:

      Beyond the information and patterns available we cannot provide anything. If there’s a specific part of our information you do not understand we can try to make it easier but you will have to point out which specific instruction this is.

    • William says:

      I have developed a pants pattern for men over the last year or so. I was grueling but the thing I learned is that the front has to jut out some for the groin. The pattern above is imperfect, no offense, because the crotch seam doesn’t jut out at all. Also the crotch seam is too short. Also I don’t understand why the hips need to be accentuated like they are on a woman. The area below (under the crotch) is also not wide enough for any sort of flexibility. Also, guys hate short zippers. Even the back seems pretty flat to me. One thing to keep in mind is to let there be plenty of room in the but as well. Also if you decide to add an angle to the crotch make sure the space below (inner leg) compensates for the outer jutting of the groin.

      Just thought yall might need a guys perspective.

      • William says:

        The thing I said about the jutting of the crotch don’t listen to. Just Cut out a straight rectangle as wide one fourth of the hip measurement sitting down and gather it for your waist measurement. Use an angle of about 27 degrees going from the bottom of the zipper out to the edge of whatever measurement you want for inside seam. Take that down at a right angle and continue the pattern for the bottom of the pants. Taper the waistband seam so it is one or two inches higher in the back than the front. Don’t listen to the previous comment.

  3. IMELDA SALVA says:

    I want a complete details on how to make pattern of men and women pants (e.g. a complete diagram)
    1. how to get the center measurement of the front
    2. How many inches will be added in the inseam
    3. How many inches will be added for the back waist etc.

    • susanne says:

      If the information we provide is not satisfying for your needs you will have to approach someone else. There is only so much we have possibility to do within this project and on distance. If our patterns – which are available free – and the provided information on how to make added adaptations to these are not enough, I’m sorry but you will have to go elsewhere.

  4. Orume says:

    I love your webpage and it is well presented but it offers too little a detail on almost everything.It is like it is meant for only professionals and not for beginners or rookies!I would love you to give a more detailed step by step explanation on how to sew anything you put on this site.i.e.treat every information on how to sew as if you are talking to novices.Start with how many yards would be needed to sew a particular attire eg dresses,suits,trousers etc how to take measurements,the precautions needed and how to cut out and join patterns.Or otherwise I would appreciate if you can recommended any site where I can download complete information on anything I want to sew.Thanks for your understanding.

    • susanne says:

      I don’t really think you have much to complain about. The information about how to calculate fabrics for example is available here Every garment is explained exactly step by step.

      I really think this is just a question of you not wanting to do your homework. But that is OK, it’s your choice. However, I can safely assure you that THIS website will continue providing information – for FREE – also in the future on exactly the level it is doing now.

      If this is not to your liking you can chose to make your own website with information or pay someone else to do so.

      Warm wishes /Susanne

  5. Austin says:

    Please how many inches of allowance should be given between the front piece and back piece while cutting men’s trouser.

    • susanne says:

      Sorry for being missing in action . Now …

      You can read about seam allowance needed for each pattern piece in the sewing instruction to the patterns – under the heading on how to cut out the pattern.

  6. Manny says:

    You guys are wonderful and your information is really helpful. Thanks a bunch. Hope to learn more here.

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