Sewing instructions for women’s pants with complicated fly

Sewing instructions for women’s pants:

Sewing Pants With Complicated Fly

NOTE that the outside of the pants is marked as grey and the inside of the pants as white on the explanatory pictures.   Outside=white inside=grey


Sew the tucks in the back piece. Sewing tucks in back

Line the back pieces up, right sides facing in, and sew the back seam
.Back piece with tucks sewn

Line the back pieces up, right sides facing in, and sew the back seam. For an extra flat seam, press the seam open and top stitch over the seam allowance.Sew the back seamPress back seam flat and stitch over


This is how the pants will look after you finished sewing the fly and attaching the waistband. Frontside viewed from outside
Frontside viewed from inside
These are the front pieces to the pants with the curved line marked out by using dress makers chalk or removable pencil.Front pieces with curved line marked out

Fold ‘extra part’ 2 for the fly in half and press. Zigzag or otherwise finish the edges of the fly ‘extra parts 1 and 2. Fold extra part 2 and zigzag extra parts 1 and 2


Line up piece 1 with the left front piece, right sides facing, and attach.
Attach piece 1 to front left piece

Open up and press seams flat. Fold back so wrong sides are facing and sew along pressed edge.Open flap, press and fold back


Lay the zip, front side down, on top of left front piece, right side facing. Lay the extra part 2 on top of the zip with the folded side towards the side seam. Line up the edges and attach the three parts by stitching. If, you have trouble with this step because the pieces keep moving, you can hand sew the zip into position first and then sew with the machine. Attach zip and flap to left front piece

Fold zip out and press seam well then top stitch over the seam.Fold zip out, press and stitch over seam

This is how it looks from outside as well as inside when sewn.
With right sides facing, line up the pants fronts together and sew the crotch up to
where the facing start.Line up pants front and sew crotch up

Fold pants open. On the front side, close the flaps and pin them shut.
Fold pants open and pin flaps shut Turn, carefully open flaps and attach zip to single layer

Turn to inside and carefully open flaps, making sure you do not dislodge the pins. Attach the zip to the SINGLE layer of facing (piece 1) making sure piece 2 is folded out of the way.
Turn to outside and top stitch curved lineTurn pants to outside. Top stitch the curved line, making sure that the flap 2 is out of the way.  This joins the flaps and give the fly its style.

Now fold piece 2 over and join it with a few stitches in the bottom corner.
Fold piece over and stitch at bottom
Line up the pants with the right sides facing. Sew the side seams.
Sew outside and inside leg seams
Line up the inside leg seams and sew., You may want to do a couple of extra rows at the crotch for re-enforcement.


Fold up and stitch cuffs
a) Fold up a small edge of around 1 cm and press.
b) Fold up a larger edge, of around 1,5-2 cm, press and sew.


Fold and press as shown.
Fold and press in half, fold side A up 1cm

Attach the unfolded side (B) edge to the top of the pants, right sides of the fabric facing each other. Stitch on. Leave 1 cm seam allowance at each edge. If the waistband is too long, then cut off the excess. Fold up the waistband and press seams up towards the waistband.
Attach waistband, fold up and press
Fold waistband right sides together and sew edges. Fold waistband and sew edges
Then turn right side out and press well, being sure to pull out the corners.

NOTE! Corners are shown cut in the picture but you should cut the corners AFTER you have sewn the edge. Top stitch over waistband, joining it totally to the pants. Turn over, press and stitch

3 Responses to Sewing instructions for women’s pants with complicated fly

  1. Pants sewing easy and simple thanks to the beautiful work.

  2. Dianne Browne says:

    Hi, I would like to know how to take in a waist band in the back .I have a hollow at the back and the band is always to big for me.Everywhere else it fits great.
    Thank you.
    Dianne Browne

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