Sewing men’s pants with extra long fly

Sewing instructions for men’s pants:

Sewing pants with extra long fly

Some men prefer to have an extra long zip in their pants. For this pattern you need the front and back pants pattern and the extra pieces 3 and 4. This zip does not look like a normal zip, but is close enough, and it goes all the way down to the crotch seam.

NOTE that the outside of the pants is marked as grey and the inside of the pants as white on the explanatory pictures. outside=white inside=grey

BACK PIECE

Sew the tucks in the back piece.Sewing tucks in back

Line the back pieces up, right sides facing in, and sew the back seam
.Back piece with tucks sewn

Line the back pieces up, right sides facing in, and sew the back seam. For an extra flat seam, press the seam open and top stitch over the seam allowance.Sew the back seamPress back seam flat and stitch over

FRONT

This is how the pants will look after you finished sewing the fly and attaching the waistband.Front view from outside
Front view from inside

These are the front pieces to the pants. Front pieces
Fold ‘extra part’ 3 for the fly in half and press. Zigzag or otherwise finish the edges of the fly extra parts 3 and 4. Fold extra part 4,zigzag edges part 3 and 4

LEFT SIDE

Line up piece 3 with the left front piece, right sides facing, and attach.
Attach piece 3, press and fold back
Open up and press seams flat. Fold back so wrong sides are facing and sew along pressed edge.

RIGHT SIDE

Lay the zip, front side down, on top of left front piece, right side facing. Lay the extra part 4 on top of the zip with the folded side towards the side seam. Line up the edges and attach the three parts by stitching. If, you have trouble with this step because the pieces keep moving, you can hand sew the zip into position first and then sew with the machine.Attach zip and folded flap to right front piece

Fold zip out and press seam well then top stitch over the seam.Fold zip out, press and top stitch
This is how it looks from outside as well as inside when sewn.

Line up the front pieces, with the left overlapping the right, and pin in place. Do a few very small rows of stitching in the seam allowances in the crotch to keep it together. These stitches will be hidden when you sew the seam.

Pin flaps together on front sideOn inside open flaps and attach zip to single layer flap

Turn to inside and carefully open flaps, making sure you do not dislodge the pins. Attach the zip to the SINGLE layer of facing (piece 3) making sure piece 4 is folded out of the way.

Turn pants to outside. Top stitch the curved line, making sure that the flap 4 is out of the way.Stitch curved line on outside

This joins the flaps and give the fly its style.

Fold over and stitch at bottom

Now fold piece 4 over and join it with a few stitches in the bottom corner.

Line up the pants with the right sides facing. Sew the side seams.Sew outside and inside leg seams
Line up the inside leg seams and sew., You may want to do a couple of extra rows at the crotch for re-enforcement.

CUFFS

Fold up and stitch cuffs
a) Fold up a small edge of around 1 cm and press.
b) Fold up a larger edge, of around 1,5-2 cm, press and sew.

WAISTBAND

Fold and press as shown.
Fold and press in half, fold side A up 1cm

Attach the unfolded side (B) edge to the top of the pants, right sides of the fabric facing each other. Stitch on. Leave 1 cm seam allowance at each edge. If the waistband is too long, then cut off the excess. Fold up the waistband and press seams up towards the waistband.
Attach waistband, fold up and press
Fold waistband right sides together and sew edges. Fold waistband and sew edges
Then turn right side out and press well, being sure to pull out the corners.

NOTE! Corners are shown cut in the picture but you should cut the corners AFTER you have sewn the edge. Top stitch over waistband, joining it totally to the pants. Turn over, press and stitch

One Response to Sewing men’s pants with extra long fly

  1. Lynn Steckline says:

    Would like to have the pattern for men’s pants with extra long fly. Can I order One? Would like a phone number. Thank you

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