Jeans/Pants– sewing instructions for higher back piece (ROUND elastic in back piece)

Cut out the pattern piece on the ffold of the fabric you have chosen for your adaptation (fig. 8).  No seam allowance is required now as this is included in the pattern piece.  As you can see in the right illustration below the fabric piece cut out will be dubbel the size of the pattern piece (fig. 9).

Pattern piece for adapatation on fabric. Adaptation piece cut out in fabric.

Overlock or zig-zag the side and bottom edges. (fig 10).

Adaptation piece with overlocked/zig-zagged bottom and side edges.

Fold the piece in half and lay on a new piece of folded fabric. Using the adaptation piece as a guide, trace the curved line and the side line onto the new piece of fabric as in the top two illustrations below (fig 11).

Make another line approx 6 cm below the top line, following the curve. Cut the piece out as in the bottom two illustrations below (fig. 11). This is now your FACING piece, it will create the tunnel through which the elastic can be threaded, and finish the back off neatly.

Use cut adaptation piece to measure, draw and cut out facing.

Over-lock or Zig-Zag the side edges of the facing piece (fig. 12).

Adaptation piece and facing with side edges overlocked/zig-zagged.

Fold the lower edge of the adaptation piece and the lower edge of the facing piece approx 1 cm up, right sides facing out and press flat (fig. 12 13).

Fold lower edges of adaptation piece and facing 1 cm and press.

Pin the facing piece to the adaptation piece, right sides facing each other and sew together. Turn the facing piece so that right sides are facing out and press the seam line.  Press the edges in 1 cm on both the adaptation piece and the facing (fig. 14).

Pin and sew facing to adaptation piece right side against each other. Turn over and press. Press sides in 1 cm.

Zig-zag stitch the raw edges of the jeans/pants (fig, 15).

Zig-zag stitch the raw edges of the jeans/pants.

Cut small notches in the corners of the jeans/pants. This allows for more movement or the original garment when inserting the new piece (fig. 16).

Cut small notches in the corners of the jeans/pants.

With the facing folded up pin the adaptation piece into place. Start in the middle then working your way out on both sides. Make sure the adaptation piece will fit in evenly by alternating putting in one pin to the right and then one to the left (equal distance) (fig. 17).

Pinning together the jeans/pants with the adaptation piece is done with right side of fabric facing you. You have already folded the edges of the adaptation piece and are covering the edges in the cut our section with this.

Pin the adaptation piece (facing folded up) to the cut out in jeans/pants. right side facing you.

Hand sew the adaptation piece into place (fig. 18). Hand sew the adaptation piece into place.

With the facing folded up use the sewing machine to top stitch over the seams to add strength (fig. 19).

With the facing folded up top stitch over the seams.

Fold the facing back down and stitch it to the adaptation piece Sew one row of stitching about ½ cm down from the top edge and one row about ½ cm up from  the bottom edge, creating a tunnel (fig. 20).

Fold the facing back down and stitch it to the adaptation piece creating a tunnel for the elastic.

Cut your elastic to size (half the measurement of your waist) and thread with a safety pin. Thread the elastic through the channel. Remember to secure the loose end as you thread it through (fig. 21).

Cut your elastic to size and use safety pin to thread through the tunnel.

Sew the facing piece down on the sides leaving about ½ cm of elastic showing. The stitching will anchor the elastic in place (fig. 21).

The illustration below shows the finished result (fig. 22).

The finished back with elastic in place.

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