Sewing the non-stretch skirt together and inserting zips

Sewing instructions for women’s non stretch skirt:

Sewing skirt and inserting zips

THE FRONT

If you have chosen to insert a zip (or two zips) at the front of the non-stretch skirt pattern you will start by doing this. This is an easy way to insert zips.
Sew tuck and seam, press out
Sew the remaining tuck together. Then sew along the seam where the zip will be placed. The seam will follow the same line as the tuck from the waist, continuing in a straight line down to the hem. Flatten out the skirt and iron along the back side of the seam, pressing the edges out.
Place zip on seamSew on zip
Place the zip face down and centred onto the back side of the seam and stitch it on. If you use a short zip (not full length) stitch a few extra rows of stitching at the bottom.
Turn skirt, unpick stitches and reveal zip
Turn the skirt over to the front side. Use an unpicking tool, or a pair of small, sharp, pointed scissors, to carefully cut the stitches and open the seam over the zip. The zip will be revealed.Unpicking tool

Be very careful to not cut the fabric.

For a front with double zips you will sew two full length seams following the tuck lines, continuing down to the hem. Insert the zips in these as above.Sew tucks

If you have chosen a front without zip/s, sew the tucks together same as for the stretch skirt.

THE BACK

The back is made up of three parts, two side sections and a middle panel. This creates a shapelier curve for the backside and seating area. If you want to add some stretch to a skirt of non-stretch fabric you can replace the middle panel with stretch fabric.

Sew tucks and join parts
Sew the tucks, and then sew the seams joining the side sections to the middle panel. Press the seams. Remember, the tucks are in the side seams.

SEWING THE SKIRT TOGETHER

Place the front and back part together and sew the side seams.
Sew side seams and press open
If you have chosen to insert a zip in the side seam you will do this now. Press the seams open. Place a zip face down and centred on the seam. Sew it on and stitch a few extra stitches at the end to secure it.
Place zip on seamSew on zip

Turn the skirt to the right side and unpick the seam using an unpicking tool of sharp pointed scissors. The zip is revealed.
Turn skirt and unpick seam over zipZip is revealed

In these examples we have shown a short zip. A full length zip is inserted in the same way. The only difference in choosing a full length zip is in how you make the hem.

HEM

Sew up hemHem with full length zip
When using a full length zip, sew up the hem as shown here.

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