Sewing instructions for women’s suit style jackets contain the following:
- description of the content of the sewing instructions,
- cutting the pattern,
- sewing a curved back,
- sewing sleeves to jacket,
- sewing cuffs or wristbands, collar and zipper (no facing),
- sewing cuffs or wristbands, collar and zipper (facing),
- lining the hem.
Sewing wristband or cuffs, collar and zip (facing)
This is how you attach wristbands in rib knit fabric.
a) Join the ribbing to a loop, right sides together. Press the seam allowances open
b) Fold the ribbing wrong sides together and baste (hand sew) edges together.
c) Divide ribbing and sleeve into four equal parts and mark with pins.
d) Lightly stretch ribbing and sew to sleeve, finish seams together and press up.
This is how you make a cuff without ribbed wristband.
a) Fold up a small edge of around 1 cm and press.
b) Fold up a larger edge, around 1,5-2 cm press and sew.
COLLAR WITH FACING
First sew the facing together. With right sides facing each other, join the front and back facings together across the shoulder seam.
You use the same method to attach all three types of collar, but you will not need to stretch the non-ribbed collar.
a) Mark the centre back and shoulder seams on the collar, and on the neckline of jacket and facing.
b) Join the collar to both the jacket and the facing. Press the seams down.
c) Fold the facing down into the inside of jacket and press the collar.
Attaching the zip.
a) Fold the facing to the right side of the jacket. Jacket and facing face each other right side against right side.
b) Lay the zip right side against the jacket front, and teeth pointed inwards (towards the sleeve). The zip is between the jacket and facing. Sew the seam.
c) Fold the facing to the inside and reveal the zip. Press the seam and topstitch about 0,5 cm from the zip.
FINISHING THE COLLAR
Once the zip has been inserted, line up the collar seam.
Sew around the neckline in the seam created when joining the collar so the stitching is invisible. Hand sew first if the fabric is moving around too much.