Sewing men’s pants with simple fly

Sewing instructions for men’s pants:

Sewing pants with simple fly

NOTE that the outside of the pants is marked as grey and the inside of the pants as white on the explanatory pictures. Outside=white Inside=grey


Sew the tucks in the back piece.
Sewing tucks
On the front piece sew zigzag stitch over the edges of both flaps (separately, not together) and using a removable pencil or dress makers chalk, mark the curve on the front of the left hand side. Zigzag flaps and mark curve


Line up the sides of front and back pieces, right sides facing in, and sew side leg seam. Do this for both legs. Line up the inside leg sides and sew together. Press seam open. Do this for both legs.Sew inside and outside leg seams

Leave one leg with wrong sides facing out, and turn the other leg so that the right sides are facing out. Put the right side out leg into the other leg, lining up the crotch seam.Turn one leg right side facing out and put this inside the other


With legs lined up inside each other, sew the front crotch. Sew front crotch Then by pressing the seam, and following the line, press and HAND stitch the flaps so that the left side overlaps the right side.Press flaps and hand stitch together


Turn the pants to the outside and attach the zip on the right side. Turn pants to outside and attach zip to right sideClose the overlapping flaps and pin togetherThen, close the overlapping flaps and pin together.


Turn the pants to the inside and carefully open the flaps (you should have the remaining ‘unattached’ flap to the left side with zip pinned to its top). Make sure you do not dislodge the pins on the outside.

Attach the zip to the SINGLE layer of the left flap. The zip is now attached to the right side of the front piece (including right flap) and the left flap of the fly.Turn pants to inside and attach zip to single layer of left flap

Turn pants to the outside again and overstitch the curved line to join the flaps and give the fly its style.On outside overstitch the curved line

Finally, finish sewing the back seam of the crotch. Sew back crotch seam


Fold and press as shown

Fold in half then fold side A up 1cm

Attach the unfolded side (B) edge to the top of the pants, right sides of the fabric facing each other. Make sure that the 5 cm overlap is on the left side. Stitch on. Fold up the waistband and press seams up towards the waistband.Attach unfolded side to top of pants, fold waistband up and press
Fold waistband right sides together and sew edges. Fold waistband right sides facing together and sew edges

Then turn right side out and press well, being sure to pull out the corners.Turn waistband right side out, press and stitch

NOTE! Corners are shown cut in the picture but you should cut the corners AFTER you have sewn the edge. Top stitch over waistband, joining it totally to the pants.


Fold up 1cm and press, fold larger press and sew
a) Fold up a small edge of around 1 cm and press.
b) Fold up a larger edge, of around 1,5-2 cm, press and sew.

9 Responses to Sewing men’s pants with simple fly

  1. Toks Ade says:

    this is a wonderful, simple, straight forward pattern. I do enjoy it is nice and encouraging

  2. yurin says:

    im a fashion major student in high school from Indonesia. its very helpful for me, thank you! but, how to sew pockets in trousers? i only need the picture my teacher asked me to do the work steps of women’s trousers

    • susanne says:

      You have instructions for pockets in the links at top of page. If these are not the type of pockets you want I advice you to look at a non-seated pant’s pattern with the type you are looking for.

  3. Nadeoui Eden says:

    Can this patter be adapt4ed to someone who is a 9 X? I have a son with a 74 inche waistband and it is so hard to find him pants that fit. I am hunting simple pants patterns.

  4. Madison says:

    Does this pattern include seam allowance or should it be added?

  5. Jeet says:

    Nice very helpful

  6. Carol Hale says:

    I found your pages in a “google search” for a free pattern for a woman’s raglan sleeve jacket… I teach monthly meetings to an American Seing Guild neighborhood group and the raglan sleeve is the lesson this month… I just printed and put together the pattern pieces… Your instructions are clear and easy to follow… also printed the woman’s pants pattern for myself… I know it will be successful !! I Thank you so much for your work…

  7. M.L. says:

    Thank you so much for this simple pattern
    I have used it to help me make a bariatric track pant after measuring off a worn out
    So I had a pattern but no instructions until I found your blog.

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