Adapting pattern and sewing pockets for men’s pants

Sewing instructions for men’s pants:

Adapting pattern and sewing pockets


The pattern does not include pockets, but if you wish to have them, it is not that difficult to change the pattern yourself. Here are the instructions for both making the pattern and sewing the pockets.

For the ‘simple fly’ pants you attach the pockets BEFORE you join the side and inner leg seam, thus before you begin any work with the actual zipper and fly. For the ‘normal fly’ and ‘long fly’ pants you also need to sew and attach the pockets before you sew the side and inner legs seams, but it can be done BEFORE or AFTER you have attached the zip. You will also need some extra scrap fabric, something thin, like cotton.

Trace new pattern for your pants front and on that tracing mark where you want the pocket to be.Trace pocket line on front piece

This is where you want your pocket line to start on your pants. Then outline the pocket pieces making up the inside and backside of pocket.
Outlining the shape of the pocket on the front piece
This is the shape of the pattern pieces for the pockets, based on the shape of the front piece of pants.

Now cut away the pocket section from the pants front (remember to add seam allowance to this edge as well when cutting). Also add seam allowance to the new pieces 1, 2 and 3 which make up the pockets.Front piece for pocket and pocket pieces 1, 2 and 3


Cut x 2 of everything. Cut piece 1 from the same fabric as the pants, and cut pieces 2 and 3 from your extra fabric. Finish the edge of piece 1 by overlock or zigzag stitch . Then attach piece 1 to piece 3.Cut pieces

With right sides facing, attach piece 2 to the pants front at the waist line.
Fold piece 2 to the inside and press the joined edge. Stitch on the outside to fix the pocket piece firmly.Attach piece 2 to front

Line up the inside pocket (piece 3 with piece 1 attached) with the pants front. Pin at the top, to hold in place. Stitch around pockets inside edge to close it. You should NOT attach it to front piece of pants.

Fold piece 2 in and stitch

You will have a pocket sewn together at the curved inside line. At the side seam the pocket is still open. You will close this when you sew the side seam.

6 Responses to Adapting pattern and sewing pockets for men’s pants

  1. Theo says:

    Keeping my fingers crossed, I’m gonna get it right…. so far so good. Thanks for the directions. At first I thought that the directions were not comprehensive enought but I perservered and I’m glad I did. Following your instructions one step at a time, I’m getting there. Thanks

  2. Maureen Rhiney says:

    Thanks to you. I did a ladies pants recently and the hip was too close

    • susanne says:

      Surely you mean thanks to yourself. After all you are the one responsible for measuring yourself, doing the sample garment and adapting the patterns to fit your individual shape.
      This is an project based on the Independent Living philosophy which has as one of its fundamentals that we should stop seeing ourselves as victims and blaming others for things we are absolutely capable of taking responsibility for ourselves. You should try it sometime. It is liberating.

  3. Caroline Baker says:

    What I am looking for my Dad is a pattern for open back pants as he is wheelchair bound and his caregivers have trouble dressing him. I shopped today for them and found them very expensive. I know I can make them for a lot less. Any suggestions?

  4. Ok, I can not understand why mans pocket are up and down , OK maybe not the right way to say it ,look at the best pants and you can see them open up as they walk,set ,what ever. the western style looks a 100% better (I think) and you do not lose your keys, money, etc
    Carl F. Hodson SR

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