Sewing wristband or cuff, collar and inserting zip (with facing) for men’s suit style jacket

Sewing instructions for men’s suit style jacket:

Sewing wristband or cuffs, collar and zip (with facing)

WRISTBANDS

This is how you attach wristbands in rib knit fabric.
a) Join the ribbing to a loop, right sides together. Press the seam allowances open.
Sewing the wristband

b) Fold the ribbing wrong sides together and baste (hand sew) edges together.
c) Divide ribbing and sleeve into four equal parts and mark with pins.
d) Lightly stretch ribbing and sew to sleeve, finish seams together and press up.

CUFFS

This is how you make a cuff without ribbed wristband.
Sewing cuffs
a) Fold up a small edge of around 1 cm and press.
b) Fold up a larger edge, around 1,5-2 cm press and sew.

COLLAR WITH FACING

First sew the facing together. With right sides facing each other, join the front and back facings together across the shoulder seam.black=fabric wrong sida, grey = right sideFront facing

You use the same method to attach all three types of collar, but you will not need to stretch the non-ribbed collar.

a) Mark the centre back and shoulder seams on the collar, and on the neckline of jacket and facing.Mark centre,  back and shoulder on neckline
Join the collar
b) Join the collar to both the jacket and the facing. Press the seams down.
c) Fold the facing down into the inside of jacket and press the collar.
Fold facing down into jacket

ZIP

Attaching the zip.
a) Fold the facing to the right side of the jacket. Jacket and facing face each other right side against right side. Attach zip
b) Lay the zip right side against the jacket front, and teeth pointed inwards (towards the sleeve). The zip is between the jacket and facing. Sew the seam.
c) Fold the facing to the inside and reveal the zip. Press the seam and topstitch about 0,5 cm from the zip.

FINISHING THE COLLAR

Once the zip has been inserted, line up the collar seam. Sew around the neckline in the seam created when joining the collar so the stitching is invisible. Hand sew first if the fabric is moving around too much. Stitch the collar

2 Responses to Sewing wristband or cuff, collar and inserting zip (with facing) for men’s suit style jacket

  1. Jon Oeltjen says:

    Is there any way to use buttons instead of a zipper

    • susanne says:

      I’ll see if we can do a piece on adapting patterns for buttons but can’t promise it’ll be done in the near future.

      Try adapting the pattern by adding a couple or more centimeters (depending on how big button holes/buttons you want) to both sides of the front and front facing pieces to allow them to cross over each other and create placing for buttons/holes. Depending on what kind of collar you’re doing you might need to leave this the original size leaving the added piece hemmed.

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