Cutting out the pattern for the non-stretch skirt

Sewing instructions for women’s non stretch skirt contain the following:

Cutting the pattern

Remember non-stretch fabrics sit differently on the body. It is therefore advisable to make the skirt in a larger size. When you lay the paper pattern onto the fabric you have to remember to add seam allowance before you cut. I usually add 1 cm to all the edges and 2,5-3cm for the hems. If you have chosen to insert the zip in an existent seam the front of your skirt will be cut in one piece. You do this by placing the pattern on the fold
(so the fabric is doubled). Front without zip on fold of fabric

For a skirt with one zip inserted at the front you will have two front pieces which are very different from each other. You need one piece of fabric for each of these and they are therefore cut on non-folded fabric. Front with zip on fabric

For a skirt with two zips inserted at front you will have to cut three pieces of the fabric. The middle piece (front panel) can be cut on the fold in the same way as the single piece front is. The two side panels can be cut by placing the pattern beside the frontpanel like this.

Front with two zips on folded fabric

For the back you need to cut 2 of the side panels and one of the middle panel. Place the pattern piece on a double layer of fabric and cut both pieces at once.

Back on folded fabricDo not taper at hems

Note that you should not taper the seam allowance in at the bottom but widen instead.

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