Sewing instructions for women’s suit style jackets contain the following:
- description of the content of the sewing instructions,
- cutting the pattern,
- sewing a curved back,
- sewing sleeves to jacket,
- sewing cuffs or wristbands, collar and zipper (no facing),
- sewing cuffs or wristbands, collar and zipper (facing),
- lining the hem.
Sewing wristband or cuffs, collar and zip (no facing)
This is how you attach wristbands in rib knit fabric.
a) Join the ribbing to a loop, right sides together. Press the seam allowances open.
b) Fold the ribbing wrong sides together and baste (hand sew) edges together.
c) Divide ribbing and sleeve into four equal parts and mark with pins.
d) Lightly stretch ribbing and sew to sleeve, finish seams together and press up.
You use the same method to attach all three types of collar, but you will not need to stretch the non-ribbed collar.
a) Press collar wrong sides together, mark shoulder seams and centre back with pins.
b) Pin collar to neckline, right sides together, lightly stretch and join making sure that marked points meet. Press down towards body.
Attaching the zip.
a) Over-lock the front edges before attaching the zip.
b) Lay the zip, with its front side facing the front side of the jacket, and with its teeth pointing towards the sleeve, sew allowing a little seam allowance.
c) Fold out the zip so the teeth are facing the right direction. Press the seam into the body.
d) Top stitch on the front side of the jacket, close to where the zip and the fabric meet.